Healers help mend Maasai broken hearts
By Katie Nguyen
Mon Feb 13, 5:27 AM ET
In Kenya's Maasailand, the war of love requires a weapon more potent than the chocolates or red roses that bombard sweethearts the world over on Valentine's Day.
When hope fades and acts of bravery fail, many a loveless warrior turns to traditional healer Nashuru Kipeen, whose armoury of sweet-smelling herbs is famed for curing heartache.
In times past, Maasai warriors, armed with long spears and shields made of buffalo hide, used to prowl the grassy savannah stalking and killing lions in a daring display of courage.
But the bravado of a young warrior is not always enough to impress the ladies.
"If a warrior comes to me seeking to win over a certain girl, it's up to me to give advice and mix a potion to grant his wishes," said Kipeen, who has tended to the lovesick with home-grown remedies for decades.
Leaving the smoky darkness of her mud house, she wanders into the arid plain of thorn bushes and acacia trees, tearing succulent leaves, digging up roots and plucking wild berries for her pharmacy.
Kipeen swears for every complaint of unrequited love, jealousy or infertility there is a different herbal cocktail to be washed down with milk, tea or honey.
Only when all other means of wooing are exhausted, however, will she prescribe a love potion.
To court a Maasai girl, she counsels the would-be lover to present a gift of a cow or sheep to the girl's father.
To catch a man, she advises the girls to be scrupulous about their cleanliness, adorn their necks with beaded jewellery at all times, and emphasise agility and grace when dancing.
"The successes are many. Some go to the extent of giving me goats, sheep and calves to thank me for my services," said Kipeen, whose smile reveals more wrinkles than teeth.
FEAR OF RIDICULE
Yet such visits to the healer, who learnt the trade from her mother, are often kept secret for fear of ridicule in a tribe whose men are revered for the painful lengths they go to show physical strength, spiritual fortitude and sexual prowess.
To foreign visitors, the Maasai are the face of Kenya, trekking the grasslands of the Rift Valley stretching from the edge of Nairobi to Tanzania in search of pasture for their cows.
Of all the east African country's myriad tribes, the Maasai are the most striking. Often tall and slender, many still dress in brilliant red cloth tied at the shoulder, staining their hair with ochre and carrying a balled club by their side.
Despite growing exposure to western influences, Maasais still drink cows' blood, drained from an arrow shot to the vein, or dance by thrusting their chests and leaping in the air -- traditions that are the stuff of films, books and safari trips.
To become a fully-fledged elder, the Maasai man must undergo a series of arduous rites, including circumcision, which perhaps explains their reputation for fierce virility.
"The Maasai are known to be proud. Every Maasai man needs to appear to be strong. If you need help to win someone's love it's a sign of weakness," said Michael Tiampati, a junior elder.
"But it's the best man who wins the best woman. Even in a Maasai setting the woman has the right to reject someone. A Maasai man may go to extreme lengths to win back a love or regain his sexual faculties, even if it means seeing a healer."
As couples around the world kiss over champagne and candle-lit dinners on Tuesday, Kipeen will be grinding herbs and waiting for the lonely warrior who may not celebrate Valentine's Day, but knows the pain of unrequited love.
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